We arrived in Kurashiki around 1 o’clock this afternoon. The literature says it has a population of about 500,000, and it certainly has the feel of a city in which much more is going on than in the places we have been in the past few days. Yet our ryokan (more on it later) still has no Internet access. It is under common ownership with a hotel a couple of blocks away, and we are able to use the business center, so Andrea and I holed up there, inserting that fiber optic needle directly into the vein that keeps us connected to the world. However did we live without broadband access?
Kurashiki is the real deal and our ryokan (Tsurugata) is definitely the real deal. The old part of town is the Bikan Historical Quarter, a charming old section of old homes and establishments along a river that runs through the city. The architecture is white walls with occasional black tiles or wood at the bottom, tile roofs, including on the walls that surround the buildings. It gives the area a clean, aesthetic feel. It feels totally authentic
Our room wasn’t ready so we walked around the town for awhile, poking our heads into stores. Andrea noticed one sign at a store that was selling, among other things, place mats that were described in English as “Lush” place mats. Of course, they meant “Rush” placemats, the woven fiber. Andrea pointed this out to the proprietors, who were very happy to have been corrected and thanked her profusely. That’s our girl, huh readers?
OK, we went back to the ryokan and checked in. Our room is spectacular (I will upload photos when I get to a faster connection): two very large tatami rooms(each at least 10 mats) and a private garden with a 400 yr.-old pine tree (we are told). After getting settled we went back out into town to do some more serious sightseeing. There is an impressive private art museum, built to resemble the Pantheon, which stands out in this otherwise authentic Japanese district. The founder has a beautiful house across from it, and a villa that he built for his wife next door (the Green Villa - will try to attach a picture). We then visited a very impressive house (Ohashi House) that was inhabited by one of the leading families of the town. Built in 1796, it has at least 10 rooms and seems to go on forever. It was still the spare tatami room furnishing, but the number of rooms really distinguished it. Finally we walked through the Honmachi district, which is a little more working class, but with interesting stores, restaurants, etc. along crowded little streets.
I think the meal tonight at Tsurugata may have been the best yet. Served in our room, it was course after course of deliciously prepared, interesting food. My favorite may have been a delicate fish broth in which there were two mushrooms and a ball of fish paste and crab. It was simply delicious. There were other interesting things – small pieces of beef cooked with a brown rice crust, tamago wrapped around cooked eel, a delicious white peach in a jellied mold. Eating small dishes – but lots of them – really is the way to go.
It was interesting when we checked into Tsurugata, there were dozens of sandals – used to walk in the common areas of the ryokan – in the reception area. As we each prepared to put a pair on, they brought us two identical pair that were different than all the rest. Our cynical and suspicious minds got us to thinking that maybe these are the “foreigner” sandals they break out just for folks like us. Goodness knows what new foot fungus may be spreading through the United States. A country just can’t be too careful, you know.
Which brings me to another cultural observation – sandals. When you check into a ryokan, you leave your shoes at reception, step up onto a wooden area and slip into sandals that the inn provides for you. Those you wear around the inn, except that when you get to your room you slip out of them before setting foot on the tatami mats. To make matters more complicated, there are bathroom sandals as well, as you would not want the same feet that walk on the tatami mats to set foot on the bathroom floor. A little bit complicated, but you get used to it.
BTW, Andrea asked the Tsurugata about the different sandals as we were checking out. They quickly explained that the sandals were somewhat larger sized, to account for Westerners having larger feet. Andrea thought the explanation a little pat and disingenuous. Oh well.
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