Kanazawa

I have gotten a little behind in my reportage, and there is much on which to catch up. We arrived yesterday in Kanazawa, after a train ride that took us through the mountains and along the coast of the Sea of Japan. The countryside was pretty, although I can’t get Andrea to agree that mountain scenery is beautiful. We saw many rice fields along the way. It struck me how much manual labor is involved in the harvest. There were stalks that appeared to be hung over a wooden structure for drying and the only way they could have gotten there was by human labor. Another interesting thing we saw was what appeared to be a massive public works project, which we later learned was the construction of tracks for a Shinkansen from Tokyo to Kanazawa. It was a huge concrete structure on concrete pillars that looked a bit like a monorail – and it is extending for what seems to be hundreds of miles. Maybe it is Japan’s version of the Big Dig – it must be massively expensive. It is scheduled for completion in 2014.

Our accommodations at the Asadaya Ryokan in Kanazawa are the real deal. We have a large room that consists of tatami mats and a table with two chair backs that sit directly on the floor with cushions. There is an alcove that looks into a little garden in which there are a couple of chairs and a table. They bring the futons in for sleeping while you are at dinner. On the whole, the room is very clean and spartan (of course, reminding me of home). One of the hostesses, dressed in kimono, greets you and takes care of you throughout your stay. Dinner was served in a separate tatami room and was a true Kaga Kaiseki, consisting of about 10 courses of incredibly delicious and exquisitely presented food. And it wasn’t just sushi or sashimi (although we did have some delicious sashimi). There was food cooked on a hot stone, thinly sliced beef cooked in a broth and a vinegared course of the equivalent of seviched, pickles and the like. And that was only a few of the courses. Breakfast was equally extraordinary (perhaps even more so). Pickles, rice, grilled fish, raw fish, eggplant – and that isn’t all. And all of them are served in beautiful lacquered bowls or gorgeous pottery and presented in the most beautiful way.

I went running this morning through the streets of Kanazawa. Although I saw scores of people of bikes (going to work and school), I didn’t see anyone else running. It occurred to me as well that I did not see a soul wearing a bike helmet. How odd is that in a country that is totally fixated on cleanliness? Isn’t head injury a little more important than a few harmless germs? If I could only get a little mojo going on helmet safety, and get the Bell or Giro franchise here, I’d be a rich man.

Sightseeing today, after spending more time than we would have chosen to cashing from travelers’ check. Banks in Japan are very interesting. There is a huge bullpen of people who are working away in plain sight as you sit waiting to do your transaction. The women are all dressed in uniform; the men are all in white shirts (or at least mostly so) but it doesn’t seem to be a uniform. It all seems very labor intensive.

As we got started, we were approached by a group of school children outside Kanazawa. They wanted to have their picture taken, which we proceeded to do. And then they insisted that I needed to be in the picture! I’ve posted the shot, with me as a regular goodwill ambassador.

The big draw in Kanazawa is Kenrokuen Garden, adjacent to Kanazawa Castle. It really is a spectacular garden. There are beautiful ponds, running water, monuments, trees, mosses, etc. The design is very peaceful, quiet and lush. We visited the Prefectural Museum of Arts and Crafts, which displays and explains local crafts. We attended a performance that was described as what happen in a typical “night on the town” in a geisha district. It was all quite traditional Japanese. The performance was participatory and the group was delighted to goad me up to the stage to beat the drums (picture posted). Many in the audience got up and participated and, as they say, a good time was had by all.

Finally on the tourist side, we visited the Samurai residence district, where many of the houses are still very well preserved. It all seemed very authentic and the late afternoon was a gorgeous time to be walking around. It would be trite (and not entirely true) to say that I felt transported back to the 17^th century, but it was a good feel.

Dinner in a few minutes. I will try to write down the entire menu and blog it later tonight.